Eco-Terra Landscape Consultants Garden Tips

Tips For January... To Top of Page

Now through March is the time to start planting trees, shrubs, perennials!!!! Check out the following links:
Amending the soil
Digging the hole
Fertilizing
Watering

Pick up or remove fallen or spent camellia flowers. Leaving them on
the ground can cause a fungal disease to permanently infect the plant
and destroy future flowers.

Vacuum up leaves from the lawn via the lawn mower. Use the shredded leaves
as mulch in your garden beds or place in your compost bin.

Water evergreen trees or shrubs each week if no rain. They need
about 3-5 gallons for each foot of height.

Don't worry if some bulbs emerge early. Tulips, daffodils and other
spring blooming bulbs often do this. The foliage won't be harmed by the
cold and they will stop growing in real cold weather. Cover with mulch
if it makes you feel better.

Start thinking about your garden plan for the spring. Peruse garden
catalogs or magazines for ideas.

As hellebores begin to bloom, remove the old foliage to make the
flowers more visible.

Prune shade trees while they have no foliage so that the structure of
the plant is easier to see. Now through late March is the time to do severe pruning on trees and shrubs. Please note that for any plants that flower in early spring, you will be cutting off their spring buds. See this link:Pruning

If the weather warms and you water, make sure to drain hoses before a
hard freeze. Cover or shut off external faucets to prevent pipes from
cracking.

Even the hardiest plants when growing in containers can suffer damage
in severe cold weather. Cover or move containers to a protected
location if the temperatures are going to drop below about 20 degrees.

Water houseplants when the top 1 inch of soil is dry. Don't allow
water to stand in the dish.

Tips For February... To Top of Page

Continue with January tips...

Prepare beds for annuals, vegetables, and perennials. Till 8-10” deep and amend soil with Nature’s Helper and Mushroom compost (or any other composted manure). Use approx 1 bag per 10sqft. Also, get a soil test to determine if you need to add additional fertilizer or lime. Remember that Blood meal is a great source for nitrogen (leafy green parts) and Bone meal is a great source for Phosphorus (blooms, fruit). Check out this soil test procedure link http://www.ces.uga.edu/pubcd/L387-w.htm

Prune evergreen shrubs such as Holly. Also, prune back shrub roses severely. Prune non-spring flowering trees while dormant and the branch structure is easy to see. Cut back butterfly bushes to 1/3 of size, crape myrtles and caryopteris.Check out this pruning link http://www.ces.uga.edu/pubcd/b949-w.html

Apply mulch. Keep mulch 3-4” deep. Do not push mulch up to plant stems and tree trunks. This can promote disease. Here’s a great link to mulching and composting http://www.ces.uga.edu/pubcd/c816-w.html

Now through late March is the time to do severe pruning on trees and shrubs. Please note that for any plants that flower in early spring, you will be cutting off their spring buds. See this link:Pruning

Kill cold season weeds in Bermuda with Roundup. If you have an abundance of green onion, poa annua, crabgrass, etc, you can use a paint roller with an extension handle and put roundup in the paint tray…And literally paint your Bermuda! Green onions will probably take a couple of applications.

Cut back mondo grass to 2”.

Check out February's tip for preparing a new bed

And for the lawn…

Lime lawn if needed (soil test).

Apply Pre-emergence (for broadleaf weeds & crabgrass) to lawns . Corn gluten works as a great pre-emergent and is non-toxic.

Plant summer bulbs-caladiums, elephant ears, gladiolas.

Remove the spent flowers of bulbs such as Daffodils. Do not cut back the green foliage.

Cut back azaleas if needed after blooming and fertilize.

By mid-April, hold off on planting any trees and shrubs.

And for the lawn…

Fertilize warm season grasses when they are at least 80% green.

Cut no more than 1/3 of the blade off.

Trench around all pine island beds (about 3" deep and wide) to keep out creeping grasses such as Bermuda.

This is a good time to put out Bermuda sod.

Plant summer bulbs caladiums, elephant ears, gladiolas.

Continue to dead-head fading flowers.

Remember to change the water of the bird bath and any other areas of standing water to prevent mosquitos. You can use organic mosquito BT dunks too.

Plant drought tolerant summer annuals for sun such as: lantana, melampodium, zinneas, cosmos, purslane, portulaca, verbena, salvia, dianthus, annual verbena.

Remember to water newly planted trees, shrubs, and perennials.

And for the lawn…

Continue to mow the lawn weekly, cutting no more than 1/3 of the blade off. Make sure your blade is sharp.

Continue to dead head flowers

It's ok to prune shrubs and trees as long as you do not remove more than 25-30% of their foliage.

Remember to change the water of the bird bath and any other areas of standing water to prevent mosquitos. You can use organic mosquito BT dunks too.

The Japanese Beetles are starting...use pyrethrin spray. Do not use bate traps-they do more harm than good!

Remember to water newly planted trees, shrubs, and perennials.

Sidedress beds with compost or composted manure.

And for the lawn…

Continue to mow the lawn weekly, cutting no more than 1/3 of the blade off. Remember to compost!

In Mid June apply fertilizer to warm season grasses.

In late June gradually begin to raise your lawn mower height.

Refresh your pine islands and put down a layer of pinestraw (approx 3"). Keep mulch approx 2" from tree/shrub trunks and stems.

Continue to dead head flowers

Remember to water newly planted trees, shrubs, and perennials.

Remove any diseased foliage and disgard.

And for the lawn…

Continue to mow the lawn weekly, cutting no more than 1/3 of the blade off. Remember to compost!

Tips For August... To Top of Page

Cut back your mop-head hydrangeas by August 1st(see Hydrangeas- Pruning and Color ).

Remember to water newly planted trees, shrubs, and perennials.

Begin making plans for new landscaping additions, changes, etc (such as reducing your lawn!).

Make sun-tea.
Now sit back and enjoy your garden because it's too dang hot to do anything!...Now don't you wish you didn't have to go out and mow the lawn?

Late September plant winter annuals such as pansies, violas, kale, ornamental cabbage. Plant vegetables and herbs such as parsley, cool season lettuce, mustards.

Root cuttings from annuals such as coleus.

Get a soil test from your county extension office.

And for the lawn…

Aerate now if you did not do in spring. Top dress with compost. Late September apply a winterizer and winter pre-emergence such as corn gluten.

Put down Fescue seed.

Plant spring bulbs such as tulips, daffodils, crocus (divide crowded beds).
Dig up ornamental sweet potatoes.
Dig up caladium bulbs for winter storage- or just leave them in the ground and spend $5 for a bag of 20 bulbs next season!

Now through March is the time to start planting trees, shrubs, perennials!!!! Check out the following links:
Amending the soil
Digging the hole
Fertilizing
Watering

And for the lawn…

Put down fescue seed.

Divide daylillies, hostas, etc

Fertilize pansy beds with a nitrate based fertilizer.

Now through March is the time to start planting trees, shrubs, perennials!!!! Check out the following links:
Amending the soil
Digging the hole
Fertilizing
Watering

And for the lawn…

Fertilize Fescue lawn.

Vacuum leaves up via the lawn mower and compost. See this link: Yard waste.

Tips For December... To Top of Page

Blow remaining leaves into your pine islands then cover with a layer of pinestraw (approx 3"). Keep mulch approx 2" from tree/shrub trunks and stems. Mulch heavily any tender perennials.

Check trees and shrubs for weak branches in case of ice storms.

Now through late March is the time to do severe pruning on trees and shrubs. Please note that for any plants that flower in early spring, you will be cutting off their spring buds. See this link:Pruning

Now through March is the time to start planting trees, shrubs, perennials!!!! Check out the following links:
Amending the soil
Digging the hole
Fertilizing
Watering

If the weather warms and you water, make sure to drain hoses before a
hard freeze. Cover or shut off external faucets to prevent pipes from
cracking.

Even the hardiest plants when growing in containers can suffer damage
in severe cold weather. Cover or move containers to a protected
location if the temperatures are going to drop below about 20 degrees.

Water houseplants when the top 1 inch of soil is dry. Don't allow
water to stand in the dish.

     2. Digging the hole

     3. Wrong plant wrong place-- always research the plant. Ask yourself the
     following questions: How big does it get (width & height)? Does it prefer sun,
     shade, partial sun, partial shade? Does it prefer clay soil, sandy soil, loamy soil?
     Does itprefer wet or dry conditions? Does it produce messy
     flowers/fruits? Is it disease resistant?

8. Incorrect chemical usage & Pesticide overuse--always read the label and try to be organic!!!

     10. Improper care of tools--always clean your tools after using; especially if
     working with diseased vegetation (clean with a solution of 10 parts water to
     one part bleach). Also, keep your tools well oiled to prevent rust.

Nitrogen promotes rapid growth and rich dark foliage. Too little nitrogen can result in slow dwarfed growth, pale/yellowish sickly leaves. Too much nitrogen can cause too rapid of growth and thus softening of plant tissue and a general weakness of the plant. This will also cause the plant to be less resistant to disease, infection and injury. Also at flowering time, excess nitrogen can result in active vegetative growth and retard flower and seed formation. You will notice on many of your lawn fertilizers that the first number, nitrogen, is typically the largest. Some organic products rich in nitrogen are blood meal, chicken manure, and cow manure.

Phosphorus is necessary in plants to produce flowers, seeds, and grain. It promotes good germination of seeds, healthy seedlings, strong root formation, and general plant vigor. Too little phosphorus can result in shallow weak root system, little to no flowering, seed, and fruit formation. Also a sign of phosphorous deficiency is purplish leaves, stems, and branches, slow growth, and maturity. Too much phosphorous can result in premature flowering and seeding. You will notice that most of your "bloom booster" fertilizers have a very large middle number, phosphorous. Bone meal is an organic product rich in phosphorus.

Potash or potassium is important in the formation and transportation of starch, sugar, and other carbohydrates within plants. The result is sturdy stalks and healthy, disease-resistant growth. Too little potash will result in mottling, spotting, streaking or curling of leaves (starting on the lower levels with scorched or burned edges and tips). Also, premature loss of leaves, plants falling over prior to maturity due to poor root development. Too much potash results in an increase in the water content of plants and reduces their resistance to frost injury, thus delaying their maturity. Potash is very important for the growth of potatoes, beats, carrots, bulbs, etc.

Also, check out this UGA publication with recipes on how to make your own organic fertilizer:
UGA's site: How to Convert an Inorganic
Fertilizer Recommendation to an Organic One

The Drought

Statewide we are still in the grips of one of the worst droughts in history. The current drought officially started in May 1998 and since that time we have averaged about one inch below normal rainfall each month bringing our total drought deficit to over 50 inches! Water restrictions still exist statewide.

In North Fulton County, the odd/even system is in effect, but the hours are shorter. Outdoor watering is allowed only from 10 PM until 5 AM. No outdoor watering is allowed from 5 AM until 10 PM.

The cities of Canton and Carrollton as well as all of Carroll County have issued a total ban on outdoor watering until further notice.

Effective August 13, 2002 Cherokee County has banned all outside watering except for 10 p.m. - 4 a.m. on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays.

For the rest of metro Atlanta, you may water on odd numbered days if you have an odd numbered address, even days for even numbered addresses. Also, watering can only be done from 10 PM until 10 AM. No outdoor watering is allowed from 10 AM until 10 PM.

For more information on the current watering
restrictions, please visit the following web site:

http://interests.caes.uga.edu/drought/articles/wateruse.restrictions.htm

The University of Georgia has several online publications which are also available in print at the extension office that address the drought issue:

Coping with Watering Restrictions in the Landscape:
http://www.ces.uga.edu/Agriculture/horticulture/Drought.html

Drought Resistant Landscape Plants:
http://ugacescn.ces.uga.edu/news/newspages/getstory.cfm?id=1165

Xeriscaping:
http://www.ces.uga.edu/pubcd/B1073.htm

Conserving Water at Home:
http://www.ces.uga.edu/pubcd/c819-1w.html

Current Watering Restrictions:
http://www.griffin.peachnet.edu/caes/drought/articles/wateruse.restrictions.htm#metro

Drought Index:
http://www.griffin.peachnet.edu/caes/drought/links/ndmlink.htm

I think it is very important to remind our community about the drought and the current watering restrictions. If we all work together, then there will be enough water for all.

Sincerely,

Theresa Schrum
Gwinnett County

Hydrangeas- Pruning and Color To Top of Page

Pruning time depends on the species of Hydrangea you have. For example, if you have the Nikko Blue mop head(Hydrangea macrophylla), it should be pruned before Aug 1st .

This is because the mop head produces flowers for next year on this year's wood (this is also referred to as 'blooms on old wood').

Now if you have a Peegee Hydrangea (Hydrangea paniculata ‘Grandiflora’), you can prune in late
winter or early spring since it produces next year's flowers on next year's growth (it is also referred to
as "blooms on new wood').

So with all of this to think about, I am including a great link which should answer most of your questions
on Hydrangeas (you should also be able to determine which species of Hydrangea you have by the pictures
included):

http://www.griffin.peachnet.edu/ga/cobb/Horticulture/Factsheets/hydrangeas/hydrangeas.htm

The color of the Hydrangea is largely affected by the pH of the soil. Of course there are different varieties of Hydrangeas that naturally vary in color from one another. But the rule of thumb is a low pH(acidic less than 5.5) will produce a more blue flower and a high pH (alkaline, greater than 5.5) will produce a more pink flower. To make it more acidic, add Aluminum Sulphate. To make more alkaline, add lime.

Please remember that there are not only harmful insects but there are many beneficial insects and balance is the key to harmony in the garden! You don't want to kill every pest in the garden because some of these pests are food for the beneficial insects (like the aphid and the ladybeetle). Also, remember that a healthy and diverse garden is going to be more resistant to disease and pests. And sometimes we should just let some pests have their way...like the swallowtail caterpillars on my fennel. I just plant a couple for me and a couple for them!

Insecticides
Neem Oil-oil extracted from neem tree nuts
Pyrethrin-a chemical contained in chrysanthemum flowers
BT (Bacillus thuringiensis)-a naturally occurring soil bacteria which is lethal to caterpillars & mosquito larvae but harmless to mammals and birds.
Insecticidal Soap-Fatty Acids of Potassium Salts
Milky Spore-Bacillus popillae is a naturally occurring soil bacteria which affects Japanese beetle grubs in the soil.
Beneficial Nematodes-Nematodes are microscopic soil worms. Some types feed on plants and are harmful. The beneficial nematodes feed on insects and are helpful.
Diatomaceus Earth-fossilized bodies of diatoms (primitive ocean creatures). The fine powder cuts and dries the waxy coating on an insect’s body; such as beetles, slugs, snails, fleas.

Fungicides
Neem Oil

Herbicides
Acetic Acid-a non-selective grass & weed killer (i.e. it will kill or harm most living plants it comes in contact with)
Corn Gluten Meal-used as a pre-emergent (i.e. it will prevent seed germination but will not kill existing weeds).

Miticide
Neem Oil
Pyrethrin

Molluscicides (snails, slugs, etc.)
Insecticidal soap-Fatty Acids of Potassium Salts -there's a pellet form available called Escar-go.

To Top of Page

Remember that a healthy lawn will be most resistant to disease. Also, too much fertilizer and water can be a bad thing. Again, it's a gentle balance. There are many organic fertilizers, pre-emergents, and weed killers on the market. The biggest thing to remember with growing organically, is staying ahead of the game with proper maintenance.

Warm Season Grass (Bermuda, Zoysia, Centipede, St. Augustine)
Anytime-
Get a soil test through your county extension office. These tests are accurate and will list for you the nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and pH levels. They will also include recommendations of what and how much to add. Because of our acid clay soil (a low pH), Lime is usually recommended to help make the soil more alkaline (higher pH).

Late Winter-
In March cut your lawn very short to help promote new grass growth. Then add pre-emergence such as corn gluten to prevent germination of warm season weeds.

Spring -
Core aerate your lawn (once annually) then top-dress with compost or composted manure (use a drop spreader for this). I prefer to use mushroom compost since it does not contain weed seeds. When your lawn is 50-80% green, apply an organic fertilizer. Gradually raise your lawn mower as you approach warmer weather. Remember for established lawns only water once per week deeply (approx 1").

Summer-
Apply organic fertilizer in June.
Keep your mower set high (close to 2.5"~3") in mid to late summer-this will help choke out weeds and help prevent weed germination. This will also shade the roots of the grass and thus hold moisture longer. Mowing too short can often cause scorching and stress out your lawn. By taking away too much of the leaf blade, you are essentially reducing it's food production capabilities. Also keep your lawn mower blade sharp. A dull blade makes your lawn more vulnerable to disease.

Fall-
Mid September, Core aerate your lawn (if you did not do in spring) then top-dress with compost or composted manure; make sure it's composted so it does not burn the grass. You can use a drop spreader for this.
Apply winter weed pre-emergent (corn gluten) after you aerate. Also add a winterizer such as Fall Lawns Alive from Gardens Alive

Here's a couple of sites you can order various organic products from:

Gardens Green
Gardens Alive

Here's some great sites on Organic Lawn Care

http://www.richsoil.com/lawn/
http://www.immuneweb.org/articles/lawncare.html
http://www.extremelygreen.com/lawncareguide.cfm

To Top of Page

Turf-Brown Patch & Dollar Spot

Brown Patch (Rhizoctonia solani, a fungus) is the most common turf grass disease in Georgia. The most favorable conditions occur from late April through October. Heavy nitrogen applications increase the susceptibility of the grasses to this fungus attack. The most favorable temperature for disease development is 80-85 deg.F, but the infection can occur at 73 deg.F. The fungus remains active until the air temperature reaches 90 deg.F. Damp/moist conditions favor the fungus. In areas that receive slightly less sun or don't get early morning sun (to help dry the dew) are most susceptible. The symptoms of brown patch are brown or straw colored grass in large circular patterns (ranging from a few inches to several feet in diameter). In bermuda grass, usually the underground rhizomes will try to recover toward the center while the fungus still remains active along the margin creating a "donut" appearance.

Once, you have positively identified the fungus, you will need to do the following: It is important to remember to only water when the grass is under stress and to do so early in the morning. Remember that your grass only needs 1" of water a week. Also, do not apply excessive nitrogen. Only mow your lawn when the sod is dry; this will keep down the spread of the fungus. Your lawn mower can spread the fungus. So before mowing unaffected areas, thoroughly clean the mower blades with a solution of water and bleach (10 parts water to 1 part bleach). If better maintenance does not solve your problem, then begin fungicide applications (talk to your garden center about what fungicide to buy and read the label carefully). Keep your grass cut short while you are treating the fungus. This will help to keep the moisture down. Also, keep in mind that many fungicides are very poisonous to mammals, fish, birds, etc. So if you have pets, small children, or like to walk barefoot on your lawn, I would not recommend using a fungicide.

Dollar Spot (Sclerotinia homoecarpa, a fungus) is another common turf grass disease in Georgia. The severity of dollar spot is affected by low soil moisture and early morning fog or dew, low nitrogen levels, and temperatures of 60 deg F. to 80 deg F. The dollar spot is more common in spring and fall but can occur in summer. The symptoms of dollar spot are small circular spots of an inch to a few inches in diameter. The spots are brown or straw colored. Individual live grass blades may be spotted with straw colored dead spots usually found along one edge of the blade. The pattern and color of the leaf blades are a good way to distinguish between dollar spot and brown patch.
Usually, dollar spot can be brought under control with a nitrogen application and proper watering. If the damage is severe, a fungicide might be required. Again, remember to mow your lawn when it is dry.

Remember to call your county extension office for further assistance if you have any questions concerning your sod. You can also bring samples in and have a soil test done.

Turf-Why You Should Reduce It!To Top of Page
By Shannon Pable

Balance is the key to harmony. This is so true in the landscape. A balanced garden is one that is diverse in nature. This brings me to the topic of turf, sod, lawn, grass...whatever you prefer. Focusing on a big area of perfectly manicured green carpet-like mass has become the American suburb dream. Just think about how much time you spend (as well as money) each week on maintaining this green carpet mass...And the shear dread when crab grass invades or brown patch takes over...eek!

Native trees, shrubs, ground covers flower beds, and attractively mulched areas, are not only better environmental choices for people and wildlife, but are easier and less costly to maintain. Native plants are much more hardy and disease resistant as well as accustomed to our hot/dry summers. They are also much more interesting and attractive in the landscape than just a green carpet.

Here are some good reasons why it is to your advantage to reduce your lawn :

* The lawn is typically the most expensive component of the landscape to maintain

* 30 percent of water consumed on the East Coast goes to watering lawns; 60 percent on the West Coast.
(Redesigning the American Lawn)

* More than 70 million pounds of synthetic pesticides are used on U.S. lawns annually (U.S. News and World Report, 10/28/96)

* Lawns offer little habitat value for wildlife

* A lawn mower emits as much hydrocarbon in one hour as a typical auto driven 50 miles. (National Vehicle and Fuel Emissions Lab, Ann Arbor)

You can learn so much about our native plants through the Georgia Native Plants Society at www.gnps.org This fall will be a great time to get started with planting those native trees, shrubs, and herbaceous perennials. If you have questions about digging up sod, we can help. I do this a lot (to my husband's dismay)!

Poison Ivy-The Facts To Top of Page

How to ID it:

Here's a couple of links with more information and photo's of
poison ivy:

http://res2.agr.ca/ecorc/poisivy/title.html

http://www.poison-ivy.org/

How to get rid of it from the landscape:

You can either pull by hand or kill poison ivy with Brush B Gone or Roundup.
Just remember that poison ivy berries are a food source
for birds. So only get rid of it in areas that you and your
family come in contact with frequently.

After the poison ivy is dead, the oil, urushiol
(pronounced oo-roo-shee-ohl)will still remain in the
dead leaves, stems, & vine...so be very careful when
removing not to make contact on your skin.

Also, if you have the big
hairy vines on tree trunks, they contain a high
concentration of the oil too. Even after you remove
these vines, the oil will remain on the tree; so be
careful!

Some people use plastic newspaper bags when picking and disposing of
poison ivy. Place the bag over your hand and pick it. Then pull the bag off
of your hand leaving the poison ivy inside and dispose of it.

How to prevent it & what to do if you get it:

First of all, the rash can only develop where your skin comes
in contact with the oil. It is NOT spread through your body
internally. You might ask, "How did I end up getting
poison ivy weeks later in spots that could not have been exposed?"
Well....The oil can get on your shoes,
then when you put these same shoes on weeks later, the oil gets on your
hands. Or perhaps it got on one of your garden tools. Thoroughly
rinse all tools, shoes, etc. with water after coming in contact with poison
ivy.

Also, carefully, remove all
clothing and wash at once after coming in contact with poison ivy.
If your skin comes in contact with it, flush your skin with soap and
water within 30 minutes or use the Jewelweed wash as
described below.

There is a product available that you can take
internally that will build up your immunity to the
poison ivy. I use it myself and it works. It is Oral
Ivy, here's a link:
http://www.poison-ivy-protection.com/

The Jewelweed wash can not only help prevent poison ivy but can help with the treatment of. Read below...

Also, Calamine Lotion, Caladryl and Benadryl can be applied topically.

Remember to always seek the guidance of a medical professional when treating yourself.

Jewelweed…A Gem of a Plant for Poison Ivy

Impatiens capensis & I. Pallida (Balsaminaceae family): From the Latin “impatiens”, referring to their explosive little seed pods. My kids fondly refer to these pods as “poppers”. I. Capensis is also referred to as Spotted Touch-me-not. It is commonly referred to as “Jewelweed” because the leaf, when placed underwater, reflects a beautiful jewel-like sheen. This plant is usually found in very wet, shady, sandy, loamy soil and can be verrrry invasive...but that's o.k. with me!

First and foremost, be sure that the area you are harvesting from is free of chemicals, pesticides, or any other contaminants.

The leaves and the juice from the stem of Jewelweed are used to help prevent and treat poison ivy, other plant induced rashes (such as stinging nettle), and insect bites. Jewelweed is an anti-inflammatory (a natural cortisone). It suppresses the body's body's own immune system reaction to the urushiol (pronounced oo-roo-shee-ohl, the oil contained in poison ivy). When you are out in the field and find you have been exposed to poison ivy, oak, poison sumac, or stinging nettle you can reach for the jewelweed plant and slice the stem, then rub its juicy inside on exposed parts. This will promptly ease irritation, reduce inflammation, and usually prevent skin breakout. A poultice from the plant is also a remedy for bruises, burns, cuts, eczema, insect bites, sores, sprains, warts, and ringworm.

Jewelweed tea can be made from boiling leaves for 20 minutes. Then strain the liquid and pour into ice cube trays for freezing. When you have a skin rash, rub it with a jewelweed cube and you will be amazed with its healing properties. It will keep in the freezer for up to a year. Jewelweed does not dry well due to its high moisture and oil content. Do not make alcoholic tinctures from Jewelweed because some people have had a bad reactions using jewelweed with alcohol.

Jewelweed sprouts also make a delicious cooked green but only with proper preparation due to its high level of calcium oxalate. It can be harmful if ingested raw but is destroyed by thoroughly cooking or drying the plant. The sprouts should be gathered before they reach six inches tall, and boiled from ten to fifteen minutes in two changes of water. Do not use the water for drinking. People with a tendency to rheumatism, arthritis, gout, kidney stones and hyperacidity should take special caution if including this plant in their diet.

The Drought

http://www.richsoil.com/lawn/ http://www.immuneweb.org/articles/lawncare.html http://www.extremelygreen.com/lawncareguide.cfm

To Top of Page

Turf-Brown Patch & Dollar Spot

Jewelweed…A Gem of a Plant for Poison Ivy

http://www.richsoil.com/lawn/
http://www.immuneweb.org/articles/lawncare.html
http://www.extremelygreen.com/lawncareguide.cfm